Iguassu

THE  WATERFALLS  OF  IGUASSU

Aaaah, the world famous waterfalls! These falls are claimed to be more impressive than the Niagara falls, so I have heard. I am keen to find out for myself. A common feature of these two well-known places is that you can admire them from the viewpoints of two different countries, but in this case with their own distinct spelling. While Argentina writes "Iguazu", Brazil spells the name as "Iguaçu", with, as a spoiler, somebody's attempt (whose for heavens sake?) to standardize the name by making it "Iguassu". Whatever the spelling, it means "big water" in the indigenous Tupi-Guarani language. The mouth of the Iguaçu River is at the point where the official borders of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay come together in the middle of the Paraná River.

The Iguaçu Falls themselves date from about 150 million years ago - as a brochure informs me - with about 275 waterfalls nowadays. Other numbers equally boggle my mind, like the annual average flow of 1,400 cubic meters of water per second, increasing to 2,500 in October - it is beyond my poor mind's grasp. 

I am on the Brazilian side, the best viewpoint to see the waters coming down in Argentina. It is a stroke of luck that I have been able to team up with a Brazilian friend from Vancouver, who is on holiday here with her Brazilian husband and a couple of their friends. This is definitely an experience to share with others. The five of us start on our trail in the woods and are immediately awe-struck when we see the masses of river waters hurtling down - what a spectacle to see.

But we are only at the beginning of the 1200-meter trail. As we walk along the set path in the woods we find another astonishing  viewpoint, and 100 meters further on yet another one, offering an overview of the wide area of the Iguaçu Falls. Nature with its wild, unforgiving force shows us ever more impressive sights of the dazzling river. When we follow the special "contemplation belvedere" viewing deck a bit farther down, we need to put on the flimsy plastic raincoats sold everywhere for a few Reais, to protect us from the constant  light drizzle. The closer view of the rapidly flowing river is magnificent as well as humbling. The end of the trail is right next to where the river comes down 90 meters with a roaring, thundering noise, called the Devil's Throat. The waterfalls are impressive, both breathtakingly beautiful and nerve-wreckingly scary.

After lunch, we gear up for the last stage of the trip, a ride in an open motorboat which takes us on the Iguaçu River. Yes, we are all wearing rain gear to stay dry, and yes, we have all put on bright orange life vests to stay safe. Still, our guide tells us  "Enjoy your shower!" After a few quiet minutes in the open vessel to  admire the scenery of rocks and rapids, we approach the actual waterfalls. It means that we must now officially be in Argentinian waters, my first-ever presence in this country. The guide stops taking photographs of us - unsuspecting passengers - and bundles up in his rainwear. Aha, so here we go! Heading straight for the canyon with the masses of falling water, some of the tourists start to shout and scream. This thrill is essentially no different from an adventure ride in a theme park. Right at the bottom of the falls  the streams of water immediately hit me as hailstones in a thunderstorm. The noise is deafening and it is hard to breathe normally, it is that much water all at once. The water gushes along my back and front soaking me completely. No clothing can possibly protect me if there is even one tiny opening somewhere in the plastic rain cover. I cannot see anything anymore and must close my eyes, being beaten by the water from above. I gasp for air. This experience is both fun and frightening, with panicky split seconds between shrieks of excitement.

Soon the actual adventure is over and our motorboat heads back, with one troupe of tourists, totally drenched but laughing anyway. Back in the quieter waters of the Iguaçu river we cross another boatload going in the opposite direction and I catch myself thinking, "You haven't got a clue yet about what is awaiting you, folks!"

Livre de vírus. www.avast.com.